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Seeing and loving Juneau's unique character

Posted: May 23, 2012 - 12:01am

Juneau has received 2 1/2 times the normal rainfall this month. But although it’s dampened the atmosphere, it hasn’t slowed the return of the birds or the king salmon. And in response to the longer days the landscape is turning overwhelmingly green. These are the real signs of spring, the season of renewal that’s more vital to this place we call home than the opened doors of the downtown tourist shops.

It’s true that tourism is a mainstay of our economy. But the hundreds of thousands cruise ship visitors don’t come here to shop. The main attractions are the waters of the Inside Passage, its sheltering mountains and dark green forests. These form the backbone our of community’s character. For many it’s this intangible beauty that keeps us here.

The Aak’w Kwáan and T’aaku Kwáan people subsisted along these beautiful shores for thousands of years before greeting the first “tourists.” They didn’t see the Russian and European explorers as an economic opportunity. Money as we know it didn’t define wealth in their culture.

It wasn’t until gold was discovered that the dollar bill became embedded in the area’s history. Gold built the town and acted as the driver of the local economy until the 1940s.

Juneau’s character has changed dramatically since those days. By the time the first modern cruise ships arrived, our economy had become dominated by state and federal government employment. But the question of character has more to do with how we live than how we earn a paycheck. And one way to define that is the lasting impression we leave on the outsiders who pass through our town.

It’s not likely they’ll recall much of the city’s history after their visit. Most of it has been buried by time’s natural reclamation of the land and the modernization of the downtown architecture. They may have purchased jewelry, shirts and trinkets as mementos of their trip, but the stores where they found them aren’t memorable. In fact, they aren’t much different than the ones they saw in Ketchikan, Sitka and Skagway.

If their visit included a local tour to a get closer look at the beauty of our natural surroundings, then there’s a good chance they’ll remember of a local guide whose affection for the land could reach into their heart. Or they might have a memory of a friendly conversation with a local resident while taking a stroll in the older downtown neighborhoods. Kindness matters, and it’s often more genuine when we’re deeply connected to our place in the world.

But the focus of groups like the Alaska Travel Industry Association and the Resource Development Council is money. They’re busy tracking people to make statistical forecasts about the dollars to be spent here. And those who want more don’t seem troubled by the possibility of extending the waterfront shopping district all the way to Gold Creek. That’s a formula for making Juneau remembered as a tourist trap.

Those of us who object to more of this so-called economic development are often ridiculed as liberal obstructionists. The irony here is that preserving the integrity of our community actually aligns with the conservative pursuit of maintaining traditional values. Conservation of place is about respecting the land and protecting the quality of life it grants to us for future generations to enjoy.

Last month farmer, poet and conservationist Wendell E. Berry called for a “neighborly, kind, and conserving economy” when he delivered the Jefferson Lecture for the National Endowment for the Humanities. It’s the highest honor given for distinguished intellectual and public achievement in the humanities. Berry said “to live and belong in a place, to live from a place without destroying it, we must imagine it. By imagination we see it illuminated by its own unique character and by our love for it.”

As a society we have a long way to go to create the kind of economy Berry envisions. It existed here long ago with the Aak’w Kwáan and T’aaku Kwáan people. Maybe if we imagine the land is alive as they did we’ll be better able to see that it’s the beauty of this place itself that calls out to be shared.

• Moniak is a Juneau resident.

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wmolson
4423
Points
wmolson 05/23/12 - 07:18 am
3
3

Nice article

Thanks for the observations, Rich.

Latitude58
14494
Points
Latitude58 05/23/12 - 07:31 am
1
1

Key question

What is our downtown to become, and who shall it serve?

hug-em-then-cut-em
2372
Points
hug-em-then-cut-em 05/23/12 - 08:22 am
1
1

Old Growth

Unpublished

Hey Rick Harris,

There is a lot more money to be made in the long run by leaving the old growth standing then be sending logs to Asia

isldandhopper
2512
Points
isldandhopper 05/23/12 - 08:46 am
3
4

if

Juneau & SE is to survive & thrive all options must be explored tourism, fishing, logging & mining. All can be done without destroying each others value if done responsibly if the stakeholders come together & work it out. If the NIMBYs get their way we'll all suffer.

Banditrider
633
Points
Banditrider 05/23/12 - 10:49 am
3
3

Hard facts

There are a lot of dillusional dreams out there that we can all live together in harmony, dwell in communes, and survive with what we grow in our community gardens. Hard reality needs to be faced. We cannot survive without trade and commerce. We have to have income to support our communities and infrastructure. We're blessed to be in an area so resource rich to where we can live good lives.

wmolson
4423
Points
wmolson 05/23/12 - 11:10 am
2
1

Rich

Back in the late 1960's and early 70's I worked for Capt. Jim Binkley as the commentator on his Riverboat Discovery. He and Chuck West were geniuses as far as the visitor industry, educating the visitors, entertaining them and helping local communities. In Juneau, I spent ten summers giving weekly talks to visitors before they went on a Cruise West trip.
Through this experience, with the help of Capt. Jim and Chuck West, I learned a few things

First, know everything you can possibly find out about your local area, environment, climate, geology, history, economy and subcultures. Visitors don't want a three hour lecture, but want real, true, accurate information about the places they visit. As the captain used to say, "They want good accommodations, good food, comfort and learn about the place they visit. The education part is like a veneer on top of a good experience." Most of all "leave them laughing" not at others, but at yourself or the way people are. One day, as a visitor was leaving the Riverboat Discovery, he said, "I finally figured out what you and the Captain are - you're Johnny Carson on a riverboat stage."
However, if they ask a question for which you don't have an answer, don't make up something - just be honest and say "I don't know for sure."
Secondly, be kind, patient, smile and be helpful if you can. Be sure to say "Thank you for visiting us."
Thirdly, remember the best advertising in the world is "Word of mouth," - not TV, brochures or the media. If someone goes home having had a great experience, they will tell their family, friends and neighbors.
Finally, good "tourism" is not only an "industry" its a way for people to come to a better understanding of other places and other people.

Calypso
6882
Points
Calypso 05/23/12 - 11:31 am
3
7

Yeah, that American dollar

Yeah, that American dollar bill is one nasty piece of paper...

"As a society we have a long way to go to create the kind of economy Berry envisions."

A looong way BACKWARDS...

wmolson
4423
Points
wmolson 05/23/12 - 12:03 pm
4
3

Calypso

I tried to understand your comment, but failed to do so again.

What I think Mr. Berry was saying was that need to take care of the place we live in, be proud of what is good and beautiful about it and not destroy our local area, just to make a profit.
I don't think he meant profit was wrong, but that it should not be made at the expense of destroying the place in which we live. And I think that is what Rich is saying.
But, maybe I got it all wrong and you know much better.

Jo MacNamara
697
Points
Jo MacNamara 05/23/12 - 01:31 pm
3
1

We should all be ambassadors for Juneau

I make it a point to be as friendly and as helpful with every tourist I meet, and I make it a point to meet as many as I can.

Today during lunch, I had two Aussies ask me where the closest wifi was. I had another east coaster ask me (in that demanding, assertive east coast way) where the city museum was.

Whenever I see someone with a map or an umbrella, I always ask, "Can I help you find something?"

Friendly, honest locals will give a lasting positive impression of Juneau, along with the natural beauty Rich described.

And that impression costs nothing and has a huge return.

wmolson
4423
Points
wmolson 05/23/12 - 02:41 pm
2
1

Jo

In the past few fall seasons, just before winter sets in, I have taken a ten day vacation to Hawaii for a "sun break." What has happily surprised me has been the behavior of the Hawaiian people. They have had millions of tourists over the years,but most of the clerks, workers, bus drivers and others, have kept the "Aloha" spirit. I had expected that they would be "hardened" and cold to a constant flow of visitors, but I found that it was really nice to ask where something was, or how to get somewhere, and have someone smile, be pleasant and help me out.
As a fairly recent "Hawaiian tourist" I will go back again, and probably again and again, because I have felt welcomed there.
People like you, seem to do the same, I hope that attitude and behavior towards visitors catches on.

jamison
3404
Points
jamison 05/23/12 - 07:03 pm
1
1

Excellent letter Mr Moniak

Our connection with the land, with the water cycle, the life cycle, and our rich and varied histories therein, is very important: It's an acknowledgement that we're all interconnected---We are our environment in every way; the things we eat, where we come from, the ideas that shape the way we think, the air we breathe. In that sense our Juneau community, like very many others, reaches far across the globe, through several important cultural traditions, and millions of personal ones.

If that kind of ground isn't alive, I don't know what is.

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