Cholet’s Notre Dame church behind the Christmas market. (Bridget McTague | For the Juneau Empire)

Cholet’s Notre Dame church behind the Christmas market. (Bridget McTague | For the Juneau Empire)

Prepping for Papa Noël

Christmastime in France.

For a while now in Cholet, the main square has been filled by dozens of pine trees, creating a little barrier around the Marché de Noël, or Christmas Market.

On Dec. 1, the Christmas lights hanging over the streets were lit, along with the cottage of Papa Noël (Santa) and a mock church that plays holiday music.

My host sister Lou-Ann and I went on a rainy afternoon to check it out. We were almost the only people brave enough to walk around in the wind and rain. We ran between the vendors’ wooden stalls, trying to stay dry and looking at gingerbread, jewelry, soap and glassware. I found the gingerbread men adorable, and had to buy one (also since we were using the stall to stay out of the rain). I had the idea to go in the cute church to wait out the storm, but sadly the door didn’t open. The vendors across from the church laughed with us and said that we weren’t the only ones to try that today.

Lou-Ann and I walked around a little longer, looking at all of the sparkly, festive things for sale in shop windows. On the cobblestone sidewalks in front of the stores, the town put out Christmas trees covered in glitter, and cement blocks wrapped to look like presents. If it were snowing instead of raining, it could have been the set for a Hallmark holiday movie.

This past weekend in Cholet, people were outside eating churros and starting their Christmas shopping.

Meanwhile in Paris, the “Gilets Jaunes” or yellow jackets, were protesting the gas tax increase for the third week. The protestors were in Cholet on Nov. 17, blocking the roads and making it very difficult for my host family and I to get to the grocery store. Luckily, that was about it in my town.

This weekend, the movement continued in Paris and became more violent with damage to the Arc de Triomphe, cars torched, shops looted and most of the city’s transportation blocked. The Gilets Jaunes are constantly on the news here, and a favorite topic at lunch at school. My French classmates are all very opinionated and started throwing bread across the table when they wanted to tell everyone what they thought about the protests.

This upcoming weekend, there is a Rotary retreat planned a few hours from Cholet. The other exchange students and I are going to spend a couple days together and hopefully go to more Marchés de Noël, if the Gilets Jaunes allow!


• Bridget McTague is a Juneau-Douglas High School student who is spending her junior year abroad in Cholet, France, as part of the Rotary Youth Exchange. Follow along with her travel adventures by reading her bimonthly column “Bridget Abroad” in the Juneau Empire.


Some of the gingerbread men for sale at the Christmas market in downtown Cholet. (Bridget McTague | For the Juneau Empire)

Some of the gingerbread men for sale at the Christmas market in downtown Cholet. (Bridget McTague | For the Juneau Empire)

Fun times in Cholet pretending to be elves. (Bridget McTague | For the Juneau Empire)

Fun times in Cholet pretending to be elves. (Bridget McTague | For the Juneau Empire)

The “pain d’épices” and surrounding buildings brightly lit on a rainy day. (Bridget McTague | For the Juneau Empire)

The “pain d’épices” and surrounding buildings brightly lit on a rainy day. (Bridget McTague | For the Juneau Empire)

More in Neighbors

Pumpkin cheesecake with a pecan crust being served. (Photo by Patty Schied)
Cooking For Pleasure: Pumpkin cheesecake with a pecan crust

For those of you who struggle with trying to figure out how… Continue reading

Page Bridges of Holy Trinity Episcopal Church in Juneau. (Photo courtesy of Page Bridges)
Living and Growing: The healing power of art

I found this awesome quote about art from Googling: “Art has the… Continue reading

(Juneau Empire file photo)
Living and Growing: A list of do’s to reclaim Shabbat

To be silent the whole day, see no newspaper, hear no radio,… Continue reading

“Princess Sophia” stranded on Vanderbilt Reef, Oct. 24, 1918. (Alaska State Library Historical Collection, ASL-P87-1700)
Living and Growing: The storms of the Fall

Psalm 19 1 The heavens declare the glory of God, and the… Continue reading

(Image by the New Jersey Division of Elections)
Gimme A Smile: Halloween/Election Day merger

We’ve got a couple of important holidays coming up: Halloween and Election… Continue reading

Sheet pan tomato soup garnished and served. (Photo by Patty Schied)
Cooking For Pleasure: Sheet pan tomato soup

Whenever I get my hair done at Salon Cedar, owner Brendan Sullivan… Continue reading

Brent Merten is the pastor of Christ Lutheran Church in Juneau. (Courtesy photo)
Living and Growing: The eye of the needle

One day, a rich young man approached Jesus, asking him what he… Continue reading

Jennifer Moses is a student rabbi at Congregation Sukkat Shalom. (Photo provided by Jennifer Moses)
Living and Growing: Joy after sorrow during celebration of Sukkot

As you read this column Jews around the world are preparing to… Continue reading

Cookie jars in the shape of a house and a mouse are among the more than 100 vintage jars being being sold as a benefit on Saturday, Oct. 26, at Holy Trinity Episcopal Church. (Photos by Bill Andrews)
Neighbors events, announcements and awards for the week of Oct. 20

More than 100 vintage cookie jars on sale during Oct. 26 benefit… Continue reading

Nine-hour pork roast ready for serving. (Photo by Patty Schied)
Cooking for Pleasure: Nine-hour pork roast with crackling

For a few months now I have been craving an old-fashioned pork… Continue reading