A creek runs beside the Mesa Site in northern Alaska. (Photo by Dan Gullickson)

A creek runs beside the Mesa Site in northern Alaska. (Photo by Dan Gullickson)

Alaska Science Forum: Pondering the mystery of the Mesa people

Now as quiet as wind whispering through grass, a plateau rising from the flats of northern Alaska was for thousands of years a lookout for ancient Alaskans. Those people later vanished, perhaps moving on to populate the Americas. A scientist is using what little they left behind to find out more about those hunters of long ago.

That scientist is Stormy Fields. She works in the Alaska Stable Isotope Facility at the University of Alaska Fairbanks. There, she vaporizes specks of blood, feather, muscle tissue, bone and other organic material. The emitted smoke helps scientists determine — among many other things — where a mammoth wandered across the Alaska landscape thousands of years ago.

Fields, also a master’s-degree student, recently saw an additional opportunity to use the lab’s tools on burned material a scientist gathered in gallon-size bags from the Mesa Site more than 20 years ago. Her goal is to see if the hunters there — steppe bison specialists — were also eating fish.

What is the Mesa Site?

In 1978, now-retired Bureau of Land Management archaeologists Mike Kunz and Dale Slaughter explored a hill that rises 180 feet above the foothills of the west/central Brooks Range. What Kunz named the Mesa Site was one of the few stony outcrops in the area. Oil developers wanted to use the rock for construction of a nearby airstrip.

On top of the Mesa, the archaeologists found ancient projectile points, stone tools and blackened areas the size of their open hands that they recognized as the remnants of ancient campfires. They found 40 of those dark circles.

During the next few decades, Kunz and many others returned to the Mesa Site. They discovered that the stone points with which the Mesa people tipped their weapons were strikingly similar to those that Native Americans of the U.S. Great Plains used to kill bison.

In a paper he wrote on the Mesa Site, Kunz noted that the hunters there abandoned that excellent lookout about 9,700 years ago. For the next 2,000 years, there were probably few or no people present on Alaska’s North Slope.

Why? Kunz and UAF’s Dan Mann think that rapid climate change at the end of the last ice age transformed northern Alaska.

The encroachment of the ocean from sea-level rise and the slow flooding of the Bering Land Bridge caused an increase in precipitation around the North Slope.

What was once an Arctic prairie with grasses that fed mammoths, horses and bison transitioned to a place influenced by wetter and warmer conditions. That meant the increase of cottongrass and other tussock tundra plants — favored by few mammals — and mosquitoes, favored by none.

The departed people of the Mesa might have then helped to populate the Americas, as Kunz wrote: “As early as 14,500 years (ago), arctic immigrants…could have worked their way south along the coast to a point in temperate North America.”

In the fireplace residue Kunz donated to the UA Museum of the North, Fields sees an easy resource she can process. The Mesa Site has yielded no useful bones for scientists to identify particular animals. But with the capabilities of UAF’s isotope lab, the grit could reveal remains of bison, muskoxen or caribou, as well as the presence or absence of fish that ancient people may have cooked.

Scientists recently determined that the ancient people of Alaska south of the Arctic Circle were eating salmon at about the same time.

“I am curious to know if the megafauna specialists that were hunting on the North Slope were expanding their diet to include fish like the people of the Interior were,” Fields said. “Whatever results we get will be exciting.”

• Since the late 1970s, the University of Alaska Fairbanks’ Geophysical Institute has provided this column free in cooperation with the UAF research community. Ned Rozell ned.rozell@alaska.edu is a science writer for the Geophysical Institute.

The Mesa Site rises just north of the Brooks Range in northern Alaska. (Photo by Mike Kunz)

The Mesa Site rises just north of the Brooks Range in northern Alaska. (Photo by Mike Kunz)

More in Sports

Juneau-Douglas High School: Yadaa.at Kalé senior Emilio Holbrook battles for a puck with North Pole junior Hunter Simons (37) during the Crimson Bears’ 5-2 loss to the Patriots on Saturday at the Treadwell Ice Arena. (Klas Stolpe / Juneau Empire)
Unlucky bounces ice Crimson Bears in second game against North Pole

JDHS falls 5-2 in physical, penalty-laden loss to the visiting Patriots.

Juneau-Douglas High School: Yadaa.at Kalé senior Evelyn Richards (8), sophomore Leila Cooper (7), senior Tatum Billings (3) and junior Cambry Lockhart (4) await a serve against Wasilla in a game earlier this season at the George Houston Gymnasium. The Crimson Bears season ended with two losses in the state tournament this weekend. (Klas Stolpe / Juneau Empire file photo)
Crimson Bears fall under Stars at state volleyball tournament

JDHS loses three straight sets to Soldotna in elimination match.

North Pole senior Kagen Kramer (9) and Juneau-Douglas High School: Yadaa.at Kalé junior Elias Schane (18) battle for puck position during the Patriots 4-2 win over the Crimson Bears on Friday at the Treadwell Ice Arena. The two teams play again Saturday at 3 p.m. (Klas Stolpe / Juneau Empire)
Home ice ‘unPatriotic’ for JDHS as North Pole skates to win

Crimson Bears look for a rematch win on Saturday against the Patriots

Juneau Huskies senior Jayden Johnson (4) finds a hole to run through against the Colony Knights in Palmer this season. (Klas Stolpe / Juneau Empire file photo)
Pure Sole: You can’t impress me, well, too much

Sometimes when awards come out, for any sport, they are based on… Continue reading

Juneau senior Jayden Johnson (4) brushes off a tackle by West Anchorage junior Talon Copeland (12) during a state playoff game at West Anchorage. Johnson was selected the All-State utility player of the year and a first-team all-state receiver. (Klas Stolpe / Juneau Empire file photo)
JDHS’ Jayden Johnson voted Utility Player of the Year by D1 football competitors

Crimson Bears senior also named First Team All-State receiver while playing multiple other positions.

Juneau-Douglas High School: Yadaa.at Kalé junior Lavinia Ma’ake serves in a game against Wasilla earlier this season. Ma’ake was chosen player of the game on Thursday in the Crimson Bears opening loss to Service in the 2024 ASAA Volleyball State Championships at Anchorage’s Alaska Airlines Center. (Klas Stolpe / Juneau Empire file photo)
Crimson Bears volleyball team drops first match at state tournament

JDHS will play an elimination match at 11:45 a.m. Friday against Soldotna.

Juneau-Douglas High School: Yadaa.at Kalé junior Hunter Lingle, junior Nolan Cruz and sophomore Stahly Sheehan work the ice Wednesday at Treadwell Arena before a JDHS practice. The Crimson Bears varsity hosts the North Pole Patriots Friday at 7 p.m. and Saturday at 3 p.m. (Klas Stolpe / Juneau Empire)
Crimson Bears welcome Patriots to first home rink battle of the season

Treadwell Ice Arena will feature rematch of last year’s final JDHS game at state tournament

Juneau Douglas’s Colton Cummins pins Wrangell’s Copper Powers during the Bill Weiss Wrestling Tournament at the Clarke Cochrane Gymnasium at Ketchikan High School on Friday. (Christopher Mullen / Ketchikan Daily News)
JDHS grapplers work the mats at Ketchikan

Crimson Bears in the final mix for team title in Bill Weiss Invitational

A Boquila trifoliolata in Parque Nacional Puyehue, Chile. (Tony Rebelo / CC BY-SA 4.0)
On the Trails: Mimicry in animals and plants

Mimicry in animals is a common form of protection from predators. For… Continue reading

Most Read